01/04/2024
Our Mackerel, Damask rose & Skotse garum is shaped my multiple trips to the Koliwada village. Borrowing from the symbiotic relationship between sea and the Koli community, this garum presents Mackerel (Bangda), a fish very integral to their culture in a progressive way.
Our first ever visit to Koliwada was last year with Chef and Chef . We went in with curious minds and returned with an ocean of wisdom. Since then, we have been reinterpreting bits and parts of the Koli community's rich culinary heritage through the alchemy of fermentation.
Small pelagic fish like lep (sole), kupa (tuna) and vam (eels) to bigger fish like Bombay duck (Bombil), Pomfret (Paplet), Surmai (Seer fish), the Kolis consume a wide variety of fish throughout the year.
Mackerel or Bangda available from the month of October till January is generally preferred fried, along with rice or bhakri by members of the Koli community but every home has a unique preparation for it.
We married this local fish with Skotse (wild garlic chives) foraged from Tukla & Fulak region in Ladakh and fragrant Damask Rose from our greenhouse to make a potent garum (fish sauce). Fish sauces originally a concept that took shape in China and now widely used in Asian cuisine, especially in Taiwan, Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, Laos, the Philippines, Malaysia, Burma, Cambodia and China also inspired us to ferment Mackerel into a garum.
This Mackerel garum is a testimony to the fermentation programme at Noon which is rooted deeply in the indigenous produce and communities of India and seeks inspiration from different cultures across the world.
[ garum, fish sauce, fermented, mackerel, fish, koli, fishing community, indigenous, fermentation, Noon, Mumbai, fine-dining ]
