Inspired by the rich and diverse history, culture and culinary traditions of Thailand, Will has travelled extensively throughout the country, seeking the most authentic and ancient recipes from the old kingdom. He spent time with hill tribes, exploring their methods of foraging and fermenting foods, and in many homes, tasting and learning recipes handed down through generations of genuine Thai home cooking, often traceable back to the ancient royal courts of days past.
Always looking to expand and improve upon his discoveries, Will has taken many of these wonderful recipes and added his own twists and interpretations, adapting to the different ingredient base available in Bali and using those ingredients to enhance the essential flavours of the recipes. He has also adapted regional street food recipes, with influences from Arabic, Malay, Cambodian, Vietnamese and Chinese cultures coming together to create a truly exquisite Thai menu at Som Chai.
Som Chai invites guests to embark upon a cultural culinary journey through the diverse regions of Thailand, from the northern hill tribes and provinces to the central royal courts of Bangkok and into the south of the country where Will spent two immersive years learning and understanding southern regional Thai cuisine.
The recipes at Som Chai incorporate traditional Thai ageing and fermenting methods, with the culinary team making their own fish sauce and drying their own prawns and fish. The fresh flavours of the resulting dishes are a result of as many elements as possible being created in-house according to methods gathered by Will through his extensive travels. All curries are prepared in traditional clay pots over wood fires, bringing ancient traditions together with Will’s own touches that never try to reinvent Thai cooking, but only to add and enhance them.
The essence of Will Meyrick’s cooking involves absorbing and understanding the traditions, cultures and history behind the flavours, and bringing them to life. For him, the art of cooking or the creation of a restaurant involves first understanding and appreciating the history and traditions behind the cuisine. At Som Chai, Will’s genuine passion for Thai cuisine is on display with his blend of old and new that conceptually threads throughout his menus, with culinary representation of the past, present and future.
“You only learn from your past mistakes - you never learn from your future mistakes because you haven’t made them yet,” said Will Meyrick. “Hence I believe that growing a successful food culture involves studying the past and applying to the future. I think it is vitally important to remember that every dish has a special place in the culture to which it belongs and is special to those who prepare it. Food is a wonderful portal into culture, and it should be treated as such.”
An example of this philosophy is Som Chai’s Royal Thai Watermelon salad with house made salmon floss, dried galangal, coconut sediment and salmon roe. This dish has been crafted from an ancient royal recipe that once impressed the royal family with Will providing his creative touch whilst maintaining great respect for the traditional Thai flavours and ingredients.
There is a misconception that traditional Thai food is very spicy. In fact, chilli peppers were only introduced by the Portuguese and Spanish in the past 200 to 300 years with Thai food being more focused on fermentation and coconut-based flavours before then. A great example is the simple Lohm, which contains no spice at all. The evolution of Thailand and the opening up of the spice trade in South East Asia saw the introduction of influences from far and wide. Dishes were adapted to suit circumstances such as Arabic traders being hosted in the royal court having recipes modified for their comfort. Recipes from as far back as the Ayutthara Kingdom, which was the Siamese kingdom from 1351 to 1767, show that food served in the royal court was deliberately mild, whilst being exceptionally refined and beautifully presented, to ensure that the King and his visiting dignitaries or diplomats could maintain a suitable decorum whilst dining. The food from this era was also often in manageable and bite sized portions so as to avoid any inelegant mess whilst eating, like the Miang Kham, which is a traditional snack from Thailand and Laos. This delectable dish was introduced to the Siamese court of King Rama V by Princess Dara Rasmi. The name "miang kham" translates to "one bite wrap", from miang (food wrapped in leaves) and kham (a bite).
Rather than heat and spice, Thai food is actually based on a careful balance of spicy, sour, sweet, salty and bitter. This balance is created by the combination of several dishes in a meal to create a whole sensory experience, which is why traditional Thai meals often involve sharing several different dishes in a family style. At Som Chai, whether you order 3 plates or 10, selecting different contrasting dishes and sharing them will create a wonderful and authentic Thai dining experience. Will personally ensures his front of house team are familiar with all the dishes on the menu, having them taste each dish and understand the flavours, allowing them to guide guests in the selection of a balanced meal with deliciously contrasting levels of spicy, sour, salty, sweet, wet or dry, soft or crispy, pickled or aged…the combinations are endless.
